Around Jebel As-Stah

time: 3-4hrs

distance: 9km

altitude difference: 370m

difficulty: easy

GPS track

View of the first part of the route

This gem of a walk takes you around the jagged mountain ridge of Jebel As-Stah, in the north western corner of the Zaghouan Massif. The trail is a mix of quite roads and dirt tracks. Take in stunning views of the northern plains, explore a small gorge and enjoy the sight of Jebel Zaghouan looming over the fertile valley of Sidi Medien.

From Temple des Eaux drive up the mountain road in westerly direction. After approximately 5km, at the switch back, park your car at the obvious car park (a dirt tracks continues towards the west).

The Sidi Medien Valley with Jebel Zaghouan on the left

The route follows the dirt track, that runs parallel to the ridge of Jebel As-Stah. Keep following this track for about 45 minutes until it meets the tarmac country road. Turn left and follow the country road in the direction of Sidi Medien. After roughly 20 minutes a vague track (it looks more like a river bed) starts on the left side of the road. You could follow this or stay on the road (they meet after 1km again). Before the road starts climbing, passing a hill the right side, turn left into the small gorge. Follow the dry river bed. It’s a little bit overgrown in places, but it’s still easy to walk it. When the landscape opens with Jebel Zaghouan dominating the view (at the concrete slab), the river bed meets a path. 100m further it evolves into the dirt track that climbs up again towards the upper tarmac mountain road. Turn left at the road and a half an hour descent takes you back to your car.

Half way the route, a small and lovely gorge

Scrambling: Northwest Ridge Zaghouan

Distance: 7.1km
Hiking up: 460m
Hiking down: 460m
Level: difficult, scrambling
Time: 4-5hrs
GPS Track

The route looking in northwestern direction

For those who are new to the word scrambling: It's essentially moving up and down rocky terrain, just using hands and feet (so no climbing equipment). Whilst the climbing should be safe and relatively easy without using a rope (otherwise it would become proper rock climbing), the terrain can be exposed with big drops. For safety, a helmet should be worn when there is a danger of rock fall.

The first section of the route, a bit of shrub to fight at the start

To get to the trailhead, drive up the mountain road from Temple des Eaux. As the road climbs, after 4km the road will make an almost 180 degrees turn (a dirt track continues along the ridge that you will tackle on this route). Shortly after there will be two switch backs. About 300m further you can park your car at a relatively flat spot. It's not an official parking but locals park their car here as well.

The start of the route is a bit hard. Hike in northwesterly direction. There is no path up the ridge. You will have to work your way through the shrub for the first couple of hundred meters. The actual crest of the ridge is quite clear and it's easy enough to avoid the bushes. The first bit of scrambling starts soon, with massive hand holds and good footing. Gradually the terrain becomes a bit more complicated, but there are usually more options to scramble up.

Using hands and feet and a helmet on the more vertical sections

The first sections have short scrambles up (and occasionally down too), maximum 3 metres. Halfway the upward part of the route there's a bigger wall, looking quite daunting but in reality is not very difficult. It starts at a dip in the ridge of about 8 meters. To get to the base of this wall, don't walk all the way to the end where the gap is. You will need a rope to abseil this as it is vertical. 20 metres before that, there's a way to descend. However, it is a little tricky and you will have to stay cautious.

The biggest but not most difficult obstacle on the route (find the hikers!)

The big wall (25-30 metres) is, as said, not too hard although it appears to be at first glance. You have to see it like a giant's staircase, with always a bit of flat ground underneath you. Just take the time to find your way up. Once you're up you'll find the crux (hardest part) of the scramble. A vertical bit of around 3 metres has to be tackled, with a bit of climbing needed. The hand holds are big though. Up this rock ledge it's pretty exposed so bring your vertigo pills! Just one more climbing section more, a lovely scramble, and you are up the summit plateau.

The crux of the scramble

The fantastic last section of the scrambling part of this hiking route

There is still no clear path on the summit plateau, but it's easy to find your way through grass, low shrub and a pointy limestone surface. As the plateau widens, you want to stay slightly on the left side as at some point you will meet a shepherds path. If you go to much to the left, the terrain becomes difficult again. It's worth the effort finding the proper trail. The trail leads to the upper part of a mining complex, where mainly the metal lead was excavated. The mine shafts are still open, but are not in use anymore. A track winds down, to the main complex. There is a small trail meeting up with a wide dirt track on the base of the mountain ridge. It's a bit hard to find. There is a little open space at what seems like a view point (overlooking the southern ridges and Jebel Zaghouan. From here, the trail zigzags down to the track. Turn left (going up) and climb almost 400m up to the main (tarmac) mountain road. Turn left here and find your car after half a kilometre.

This photo gives a good impression what the scramble is about

This is climbing DOWN a tricky section, performing the correct technique

Opening Zaghouan's biggest alpine route: The Green Mile

It has been a while ago (June 2014), but nevertheless quite a milestone in my personal climbing "career" as well as a milestone in the development of climbing in the limestone crags of Zaghouan. The opening of a new alpine route called "The Green Mile". Together with Michael Pfau it needed several sessions of exploring, putting in bolts at crux positions and some clearing. We have had help with developing the route from Mourad Attia, the head of the local climbing club Escalade Attitude. 5 pitches takes you from the bottom of the massif (503m) to the top (680m) of the plateau on the northwest side of the massif. The route name The Green Mile has been chosen for it's many trees and shrub along the route, the length and keeping in line with naming all the big new routes after movie titles.

Taking on the start of the route

Despite the green character of the route, we have managed to find a pretty clean line on solid limestone, with an occasional fight with some shrub (especially at the start of the second pitch). While developing the route (first from bottom up and the last two pitches from top down), we mistook a connection with between the third and fourth pitch. Two ledges, some 80 metres from one another looked so alike that we accidentally bolted a line that did not connect. That's why a via ferrata between the two fourth pitches is planned.

Minna Dederer topping out the 4th pitch on the inauguration of the route

Although crux sections (usually F5B and harder) and sections with no possibilities for trad placements are bolted it's vital that anyone trying this routes should have a full rack of traditional climbing equipment and the experience to use it. For more information about the route you can drop me an email: jan@37north.info.

Michael preparing the abseil down from the top of The Green Mile

Hiking the Tunisian North Coast

Tunisia is famous for its endless beaches and warm, clear Mediterranean waters. I have to admit that all-inclusive resorts and temperatures over 30 degrees are not my thing. That's why I aim to hike the lesser known parts of the Tunisian coastline in 2014, in search of unspoilt beaches and small coastal villages in the winter months. Below you will find day-to-day route descriptions, if possible GPS data, maps and photographs. Maybe it inspires you to do parts of the route yourself!

Day 1: Tabarka - Cap Negro

Distance: 20km (plus car transfer)
Hiking up and down: 110m
Terrain: beach, thick scrub
Time: 6hrs
Notes: bypass military zone

The start of the walk is at the beach near the port. Follow the beach and enter the "zone touristique". At a certain point the beach makes way for rocky points. To avoid this head inland and go around the big resort. Follow the road until you come across a dirt road, take this left turn. It connect with a road again, but turn left where this road starts. Hop on the concrete pipe to cross a stream (a bit tricky if you have vertigo). Stay left of the village and make your way back to the actual coastline. It's a bit of a search for a decent path, but after 45 minutes you should arrive at the long, wild beach. Follow this beach for 3-4 hrs up to the wide outlet of Barrage Sidi el Barrak. Go inland to the village Zouara where you will have to find transportation to Nefza and onwards to Cap Negro (rent a louage for 30 dinar).

The wild beach towards Zouara

We were followed by a boat of the Garde National (GN) (watching us with binoculars). Later we were picked up by a GN car, who took us to their station. After the security check, they gave us a lift to Nefza and arranged a louage to take us to Cap Negro. Great service!

You can camp at Cap Negro (where again you will be checked by the GN).

Day 2: Cap Negro - Sidi Mechreg

Distance: 16km
Hiking up and down: unknown, estimation 400m
Terrain: rocks/boulders, thick scrub, vague/no trail
Time: 8hrs
Note: hard section of rough walking

From Cap Negro follow the road up for about 1km. The first lefthand dirt road is a dead end. The second one is roughly a kilometre long before it disappears. After this the walking gets harder. There is no trail along the coast. Staying too high and you'll end up ploughing your way through thick scrub and bush. Staying near the shore and you will have to hike up and down a lot to avoid obstacles. It is difficult finding a middle way, just use common sense. The psychological factor is hard too. Every time you hope/expect to see the beaches of Sidi Mechreg, but you'll turn a lot of corners seeing more hard terrain. There is a small hotel in Sidi Mechreg. We camped on the beach without any problems.

On Google Earth an alternative route appears to wind its way through the mountain (on a proper trail). We didn't come across it, but we didn't look for it either. Good if you want to hike a proper trail.

Day 3: Sidi Mechreg - Nameless Beach

Distance: 24km
Hiking up and down: unknown, estimation 200m
Terrain: dirt road, beach
Time: 8hrs

This is a relatively easy day. From Sidi Mechreg the tarmac road turns into a wide dirt road heading east towards Cap Serrat. Just follow this road, nice and easy walking with great views on the Cap. After a couple of hours the road passes some farm houses and goes up and cuts off the Cap itself (we didn't see a clear trail, but you could round Cap Serrat through scrub). As the road descends again, you can see empty, deserted beaches ahead of you. In summer there is a restaurant at the end of the beach in the village called Cap Serrat. The coves and beaches on the next stretch are the most beautiful we've seen so far. Shipwrecks, secluded bays and still pretty easy walking (sometimes on old coral fields). Only the last section was a little harder with walking on boulders. We pitched our tent at the beach of which we don't know the name. There is a tarmac road leading to it from the main road between Bizerte and Tabarka, no regular transportation is available, but in the village 1km up the road it is possible to arrange a car.

Great bit of coastline with the Fratelli Islands in the background

To be continued!