Hiking Zaghouan: Rock Traverse

time: 4hrs

distance: 9km

altitude difference: 660m

difficulty: moderate / hard

notes: first part way-marked, last quarter difficult route finding

GPS Track

Park the car at the restaurant at Temple des Eaux. Hike for around 20  minutes up the mountain road until you see the sign Eco Rando on the left side. Hit this broad forest trail (which is actually the start). After 200 metres, just before the main trail bends left, there’s a smaller trail cutting back almost 180 degrees. Take this gradually ascending trail. There are way marks (white arrows painted on the rocks), but they point the opposite direction. It was marked from the top. The easy going trail stays clear and zigzags up. You keep the communication towers in view. Once you’re higher up you can start seeing the main ridge in southerly direction. You might be able to see the path that you will be taking. At the final bit of this trail section the path stays level and aims towards the bend in the tarmac road.

The first section of the trail with the route continuing on the flanks of the ridge in the distance 

Cross the road and turn right on the ascending, still clear trail. After around 600 metres the trail drops and roughens (a messy zigzag down). On your left are vertical cliffs. It still is a proper trail, but now and then it’s taken over by trees. After another 500 metres, when the landscape is more open, the path fades. One track goes down, the other aims for the big ridge wall in front of you. You should head for the end of the vertical wall on the right side. The path is now a network goat tracks, but these all lead up the broad top part of the ridge. Here you have two options. The easiest is to descend to the clear trail 150m lower. It’s a little bit steep, but the terrain remains quite open. Once you reached the trail, turn right (decending) and follow the trail towards the upper road, close to the marabout (see Zaghouan Pass hike, first section but now in reverse). The other option is to gradually descend, following the goat tracks. This choice is harder: the tracks fade and go occosionally go through shrub. But it’s possible! The route goes in northwesterly direction and leads as well towards the upper mountain road. For the final descent take the easy path from the marabout (description see Marabout Loop) to the lower part of the mountain road. Turn right towards Temple des Eaux.

Below: second section of the trail on the massif's main ridge

Hiking: Scrambling Jebel Zaghouan via NW ridge

Distance: 7km
Hiking up and down: 660m
Level: Moderate - technical sections
Time: 3hrs
Notes: bring your head for heights: scrambling sections!
GPS tracks

Start at the farm (aka as the marabout). Ask the farmer if you can park your car at the marabout premises. You could even start at a lower level, doing the farm track hike first. Backtrack the tarmac road for about 300m in the direction of Jebel Zaghouan (south). At the sharp bend in the road, get off it and enter the forest where the cattle clearance is. Past this a small but well visible trail follows the dry rocky river bed, first on the right side and crossing over to the left after 100m. Keep following the trail staying close to the river bed for a few hundred metres and get back to the right again. At the first grassy patch, make a sharp right turn and take one of the cattle trails that goes steeply in westerly direction. The trails are a bit vague, but keep going up and you'll meet with a major trail again (the one described in the Zaghouan Pass Long route).

Turn right and stay on this trail until you reach the bottom of the ridge leading to the summit of Jebel Zaghouan. The southwest aspect of the slope should be visible, as this is the line you'll be hiking to the top. Hit the slope, and don't focus on finding trails, as there aren't real trails going up. Find the way of least resistance, but stay close to the actual ridge rathe than straying too much to the right. The terrain is rocky and at times covered in vegetation. Still, the going shouldn't be too hard. At some point you'll encounter more rocky outcrops. In some cases it's necessary to go right around, but if it's possible to scramble give it a go!

The last section towards the summit involves a bit more scrambling (which is at this point not avoidable). Not quite suitable for people with vertigo. Shortly after you'll reach the summit of Jebel Zaghouan (1295m).

It is not recommended to descent the same way you came up. Go down more in a westerly direction, essentially the same route as the other summit route. There is one small scramble down, after that it is steep hiking on the broad rocky slope pointing west. When the slope gets less steep, move towards the right (northern) side. At the saddle, start descending the vague trail through the low trees. You will come across a proper trail a bit lower down. Take this into the direction of the ridge you climbed earlier.  Below you can see the stone circle, used to keep animals. This is where you're headed for. From the stone circle, take the trail heading north (seeing the marabout at 2 o'clock) which leads to the tarmac road. At the road, turn right and follow the road until you're back at the car. Spectacular yet short hike!

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Hiking: Around Jebel Zaghouan

Distance: 10km
Hiking up and down: 560m
Level: moderate
Time: 3.5-4.5hrs
Notes: one section with difficult trail finding
GPS track

This rarely done hike is one with great variation. From the big plain on the south side to the lush, green forest on the northern flanks of Jebel Zaghouan. The best time to do it is in spring time, when the fields are green and covered with wild flowers.

Park your car near the mosque in Sidi Medien, on the western end of the Zaghouan Massif. From here, start walking by following the road for 100m southeast. At the sharp bend move up the settlement left (not a real trail but follow the left side of the houses). After another 150m keep left on a vague dirt track that goes through a bit of wasteland. This gets very muddy after rain! 5 minutes later you will see a dwelling on your left hand side, a bit higher up. Aim for that as the soil is better and the views of the south side of the mountain ridges is pretty spectacular.

Spectacular rock faces on a foggy day

Now you head into north eastern direction, following the south side of the Zaghouan massif. At times there is no clear trail, but the terrain is easy enough to walk on. Ahead of you you can see Jebel Zaghouan, the highest peak in this small mountain range (1303m). You'll pass beautiful rock formations and steep, jagged walls. At the highest vertical section of the Jebel, you will see a distinct rock pinnacle (you will reach it in roughly 1hr20 of walking). Pass this pinnacle and make sure you stay at the same altitude. Contour your way towards the Shepherds Pass, making a subtle bend to the left. After a few hundred metres of scree and indistinct trail, you will find a clear path going up steeply in the direction of a small, red limestone wall. Here the steep trail continues and bends around this wall up the last section towards the pass. In front of you is a massive, intimidating wall. Going up should take you about 20 minutes.

The steep approach to the Shepherds Pass having passed the distinct pinnacle in the distance

From the top of the pass traverse to the other (western) side of the valley. Numerous goat trails head this direction, just take one of them but make sure you descend as you go. At some point you should meet the clear trail (also described in the Zaghouan Pass Long Route) that rounds the slopes of Jebel Zaghouan first into north western direction and later on towards the southwest. Follow this trail until you reach a big stone circle that is used for livestock.  Keep heading southwest for the descent towards the Sidi Medien Valley. This is the trickiest part of the hike as the trail is disused and therefore overgrown. It starts on the right side as you go down. You may find yourself bushwhacking a little bit. Lower down you will see an old mining dirt road on the left side. Keep going down, passing a ruin. 30 vertical metres down there's another disused remains of a dirt track (washed away in the bend). Take the left part of it. 150 metres further there's more ruins. Here, you leave the "road" and descent steeply on the heavily eroded path. First it zigzags down, at times difficult to stay on it. Then it will traverse to the south. Eventually you aim for the big ruined structure, remains of the mining industry in the early 1900's. From this ruin, follow the path southwest again. It's 20 minutes more back to Sidi Medien.

Dramatic mountain scenery on the south face of Jebel Zaghouan

Around Jebel As-Stah

time: 3-4hrs

distance: 9km

altitude difference: 370m

difficulty: easy

GPS track

View of the first part of the route

This gem of a walk takes you around the jagged mountain ridge of Jebel As-Stah, in the north western corner of the Zaghouan Massif. The trail is a mix of quite roads and dirt tracks. Take in stunning views of the northern plains, explore a small gorge and enjoy the sight of Jebel Zaghouan looming over the fertile valley of Sidi Medien.

From Temple des Eaux drive up the mountain road in westerly direction. After approximately 5km, at the switch back, park your car at the obvious car park (a dirt tracks continues towards the west).

The Sidi Medien Valley with Jebel Zaghouan on the left

The route follows the dirt track, that runs parallel to the ridge of Jebel As-Stah. Keep following this track for about 45 minutes until it meets the tarmac country road. Turn left and follow the country road in the direction of Sidi Medien. After roughly 20 minutes a vague track (it looks more like a river bed) starts on the left side of the road. You could follow this or stay on the road (they meet after 1km again). Before the road starts climbing, passing a hill the right side, turn left into the small gorge. Follow the dry river bed. It’s a little bit overgrown in places, but it’s still easy to walk it. When the landscape opens with Jebel Zaghouan dominating the view (at the concrete slab), the river bed meets a path. 100m further it evolves into the dirt track that climbs up again towards the upper tarmac mountain road. Turn left at the road and a half an hour descent takes you back to your car.

Half way the route, a small and lovely gorge

Scrambling: Northwest Ridge Zaghouan

Distance: 7.1km
Hiking up: 460m
Hiking down: 460m
Level: difficult, scrambling
Time: 4-5hrs
GPS Track

The route looking in northwestern direction

For those who are new to the word scrambling: It's essentially moving up and down rocky terrain, just using hands and feet (so no climbing equipment). Whilst the climbing should be safe and relatively easy without using a rope (otherwise it would become proper rock climbing), the terrain can be exposed with big drops. For safety, a helmet should be worn when there is a danger of rock fall.

The first section of the route, a bit of shrub to fight at the start

To get to the trailhead, drive up the mountain road from Temple des Eaux. As the road climbs, after 4km the road will make an almost 180 degrees turn (a dirt track continues along the ridge that you will tackle on this route). Shortly after there will be two switch backs. About 300m further you can park your car at a relatively flat spot. It's not an official parking but locals park their car here as well.

The start of the route is a bit hard. Hike in northwesterly direction. There is no path up the ridge. You will have to work your way through the shrub for the first couple of hundred meters. The actual crest of the ridge is quite clear and it's easy enough to avoid the bushes. The first bit of scrambling starts soon, with massive hand holds and good footing. Gradually the terrain becomes a bit more complicated, but there are usually more options to scramble up.

Using hands and feet and a helmet on the more vertical sections

The first sections have short scrambles up (and occasionally down too), maximum 3 metres. Halfway the upward part of the route there's a bigger wall, looking quite daunting but in reality is not very difficult. It starts at a dip in the ridge of about 8 meters. To get to the base of this wall, don't walk all the way to the end where the gap is. You will need a rope to abseil this as it is vertical. 20 metres before that, there's a way to descend. However, it is a little tricky and you will have to stay cautious.

The biggest but not most difficult obstacle on the route (find the hikers!)

The big wall (25-30 metres) is, as said, not too hard although it appears to be at first glance. You have to see it like a giant's staircase, with always a bit of flat ground underneath you. Just take the time to find your way up. Once you're up you'll find the crux (hardest part) of the scramble. A vertical bit of around 3 metres has to be tackled, with a bit of climbing needed. The hand holds are big though. Up this rock ledge it's pretty exposed so bring your vertigo pills! Just one more climbing section more, a lovely scramble, and you are up the summit plateau.

The crux of the scramble

The fantastic last section of the scrambling part of this hiking route

There is still no clear path on the summit plateau, but it's easy to find your way through grass, low shrub and a pointy limestone surface. As the plateau widens, you want to stay slightly on the left side as at some point you will meet a shepherds path. If you go to much to the left, the terrain becomes difficult again. It's worth the effort finding the proper trail. The trail leads to the upper part of a mining complex, where mainly the metal lead was excavated. The mine shafts are still open, but are not in use anymore. A track winds down, to the main complex. There is a small trail meeting up with a wide dirt track on the base of the mountain ridge. It's a bit hard to find. There is a little open space at what seems like a view point (overlooking the southern ridges and Jebel Zaghouan. From here, the trail zigzags down to the track. Turn left (going up) and climb almost 400m up to the main (tarmac) mountain road. Turn left here and find your car after half a kilometre.

This photo gives a good impression what the scramble is about

This is climbing DOWN a tricky section, performing the correct technique

Hiking Zaghouan: Sidi Medien Loop

Distance: 8.4km
Hiking up and down: 260m
Level: easy
Time: 3hrs
GPS data: note, the last 1.7km are not tracked

The mosque at Sidi Medien

The Sidi Medien hike is  great loop. The terrain is not difficult, views are fantastic and there are some interesting places en route. You can park your car near the mosque in Sidi Medien, which is about 25 minutes from Zaghouan. The first part of the walk is on the road that goes down towards Zaghouan. After 10 minutes there's a right turn-off into a small gorge. Follow the dry river bed (sometimes a little overgrown in places). Eventually you will hit the dirt track that winds up to the high road in the Zaghouan Massif. At the first sharp bend (180 degrees) there is a small trail going straight towards an small abandoned mine. Great place to get away from the sun if it's hot. From here a tricky, almost invisible path goes down to the right.

Weirdly shaped limestone rocks

In the next 1.5km is a bit hard to find the trail at times. The path is overgrown by scrub in places. Try to stay at the same altitude (you may have to bypass parts because of the vegetation). At some point you will have to descend through a 1.5m wide rock/gravel/mud trail to a good part of the route along a rock wall. Stick to the path that now goes into the direction of the massive Dolomite style rock walls in the distance. You will see the ruined mining settlement on your right and a shark tooth shaped rock in front of you. After having passed the tunnel it's 5 minutes to one of the ruins on a open pasture. From here it's only 20 minutes back to Sidi Medien. Beautiful hike!



Tunnel!

Hiking Zaghouan: the Shepherds Pass

The Shepherds Pass

Distance: 13km
Hiking up: 770m
Hiking down: 770m
Level: moderate
Time: 4-5hrs
GPS Track

The Shepherds Pass route, with the top of the map north

This half a day hike is a little bit of everything that the Zaghouan Mountains has to offer. The lush canyons of the interior, the open plain with massive limestone walls on the south side (and sun!) connected by the most accessible pass in the range.

The south face of the Zaghouan Mountains

Start at the Temple des Eaux, the Roman site at the western end of town. This is a good place to park your car and have a drink at the start/finish of the walk. Follow the tar road eastwards, keeping as close to the mountains as possible. Essentially keep right. I tried to find a trail through the forest, but these were all dead-end. The tar road changes into a dirt track just after the left turn of to the centre (where you should go straight ahead yourself). At the next junction, stay right. The dirt track starts ascending, still through pine forest. The hiking is easy going. After roughly another 45 minutes you'll pass some impressive big, red limestone walls. Pass the village and try to stay close to the mountain (find a small trail that stays high up). It'll take another 30 minutes to the base of the Shepherds Pass. Further down is the huge wall that towers up to the summit of Jebel Zaghouan, the highest mountains in this range. The Shepherds Pass looks quite intimidating, but a trail goes all the way up the 950m pass. Great views on both sides are waiting for you!

The route down the pass, passing the bottom of the big ridge

Go down and stay on the right side of the valley. Several goat tracks zigzag down until you enter the forest. Gradually the trail gets wider and level. Follow this all the way to the road (which is a higher level than Temple des Eaux, at an altitude of 600m!). The farm is only a few hundred metres away. Behind the farm the "farm track", described in an earlier post, winds down to the lower level of the road. Backtrack the road eastwards. 200 metres after the car park (for the Climbing Canyon and Farm Track), turn right at a wide dirt track. This enables you to hike the last couple of km's off-road. At the wide clearance you can hike straight down to the cafe at the Temple des Eaux. Enjoy your well-deserved cuppa!